Paddling the Panhandle
Sparkling white sandbars, tannin–infused waters, and crystal–clear springs abound in the fast–moving rivers and creeks of Northwest Florida.
By Johnny Molloy, photography by Beth Young
The streams of Northwest Florida offer paddlers an unforgettable ride through forests bordered by gleaming white sand and mysterious cypress. A wooded expanse, the waterways also are home to wading birds plying the shallows and deer drinking secretively from clear waters. But for those unfamiliar with the region, it’s a paradise one traverses quickly–thanks to a variety of rivers that move canoeists and kayakers through an area growing in reputation as a paddlers’ destination. And the secret ingredient in this abundant blend of forests, wildlife, and hidden gems is the land’s elevation.
While Florida cannot claim any mountains, Northwest Florida is higher in elevation than the rest of the state. In fact, it often is less than fifty miles from a high point of three hundred feet above sea level to the Gulf of Mexico. The steep gradient forces more surface water runoff, and for the canoeist or kayaker, this makes for perfect paddling conditions. The river carries you at a brisk pace, but not so fast that you miss your surroundings. You have time to absorb the scenery–be it osprey or woodpecker, majestic longleaf pine or its cypress-kneed counterpart. And you can enjoy the peaceful quiet of the water dripping off your paddle as the current silently carries you along.
That relative altitude also conspires to move the area’s shifting, sand-bottomed rivers faster than other Florida streams. These waters require attention and skill to navigate the twists and turns around bends, submerged logs, and over bona fide rapids. Panhandle streams flow quickly, and the landscape changes rapidly, making it possible to explore many different environments on the same waterway. The narrow, high–walled watercourses widen as they enter more level terrain. And as they flow, they change from havens for upland flora–such as mountain laurel and dogwood–to swamp rivers with cypress and Atlantic white cedar, and then to marshy, tidally influenced estuaries bordered by sea grass. It’s a rare paddling destination that offers adventurers this kind of variation in boating options and scenery.
Even more remarkable, the landscape is largely untouched, mostly because Northwest Florida’s rivers flow mainly through public lands. This keeps the scenery remote and natural, perfect for kayaking to a sandbar for a picnic or canoeing to an overnight campsite. Public lands also mean public access points, which make paddling trips easier–whether you’re with family members on a day trip or with a friend accompanying you into the backcountry for a longer journey. Regardless of skill level and the type of experience you’re looking for, the options in Northwest Florida offer something for just about everyone.
To keep your trip as simple and enjoyable as possible, consider going in the fall when temperatures have cooled, crowds have dissipated, mosquitoes have gone away, and Northwest Florida hardwoods display their autumn colors. The rivers generally are at their lowest around this time, revealing sandbars and hidden underwater springs.
A local outfitter can help keep your trip relatively stress-free with shuttle service to and from the rivers, as well as information about water levels and local conditions. At the very least, consult a guidebook or the governing body of the waterway you are visiting. The more you know on the front end, the better memories you will make paddling through Northwest Florida.
SUGGESTED PADDLE TRIPS
Perdido River
The shallow Perdido River, which runs along most of the Alabama–Florida state line, winds through deep forests of juniper and cypress, and has sandbars lining nearly every bend. Deer, bear, turkey, and other wildlife call the adjacent woodlands home.
Adventures Unlimited
160 River Annex Road
Cantonment, FL 32533
(850) 968-5529
Click for map
Blackwater River
A great canoeing and camping destination, the Blackwater is known for its shallow, swift water and gorgeous sandbars. The tannin–filled river–among Florida’s darkest–originates in Alabama. Entering the Sunshine State, it mostly flows through Blackwater River State Forest and Blackwater River State Park, and is a haven for paddlers and wildlife alike.
Action On Blackwater Canoe Rental and Campgrounds
6293 Highway 4 West
Baker, FL 32531
(850) 537-2997
Click for map
Yellow River
Fed by nearly one hundred streams that drain the highest point in Florida, the Yellow River flows swiftly through more than fifty miles of sparsely settled territory. The terrain changes quickly on this state canoe trail that includes steep banks, low sandbars, swampy areas, and bluffs as high as forty feet.
Office of Greenways & Trails
Douglas Building, Room 853
3900 Commonwealth Boulevard, M.S. 795
Tallahassee, FL 32399
(850) 245-2052
Contact: Robin Turner
Click for map
Econfina Creek
The Econfina is considered by some to be Florida’s most unique and challenging waterway. It cuts through a miniature gorge and rivals many Appalachian mountain streams with a gradient of about eight feet per mile. Several dramatic springs feed lower portions of the creek, boiling up clean and clear, making for a memorable experience.
Econfina Creek Canoe Livery
5641-A Porter Pond Road
Youngstown, FL 32466
(850) 722-9032
Click for map
Ochlockonee River
Below Lake Talquin, the dam–controlled Ochlockonee River flows through the Apalachicola National Forest for more than fifty remote miles with limited access. Its serpentine course has many sandbars and is well–populated with a variety of wildlife and fish. The lowermost part of the river is swampy before it changes to a coastal marsh waterway.
Apalachicola National Forest
Apalachicola Ranger District
P.O. Box 579
Bristol, FL 32321
(850) 643-2282
Click for map
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
Florida Department of Environmental Protection: Online Greenways and Trails Guide
Florida Greenways and Trails System: Canoe Liveries and Outfitters Directory
ABOUT THE WRITER
Johnny Molloy spends his winters in Florida and has written more than thirty books. He is coauthor of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Florida and author of A Paddler’s Guide to Everglades National Park. For more details, please visit www.johnnymolloy.com.
